My First Persian is from Jerusalem

Jerusalem, Israel - Oh, the souks of Jerusalem had left me spellbound! A warren of well-trodden streets mangle into the Old City's Christian and Muslim Quarters, where adroit merchants at the Arab market huckster their colourful wares to anyone who shows an iota of interest. Needless to say, I got sucked in!

Bargaining proved to be more taxing than anticipated, although a pleasant experience nonetheless. My advice when haggling is: be friendly, not offensive; set a goal on how much you want to pay for an item and stand steadfast on it. If in doubt about a fair price, I usually start my bid at 50% off the stated figure. Most importantly, be prepared to walk away at all cost!

So, it was here in the Arab market that I fell in love with a Persian. A silk Persian rug.

To appreciate it, you have to move around the tapestry. On one side, bold colours pop out...

On the other, more subdued pastels...A truly dynamic piece!

The merchant claimed it to be 800 kpsi (knots per square inch), but I highly doubt it. I would have to get in and count the knots myself, then.

I don't remember which shop I bought it from (shame on me; and I call myself a travel blogger?). However, I am positive that it was inside Suq Aftimos in the Muslim Quarter of Jerusalem.

I'll always remember Jerusalem for introducing me to my Persian!

Fashion-phile: Sack Tops, Sarouels & Shoes

Excitement broke through as I cut open a parcel from Nimes, France. Finally, they have arrived! Belgian linen tops hand-sewn in France by Cle, purchased from here and here. And yes, I ordered this white top from the little girls' section (size is for 12 ans). The lin naturel (natural-colour) top from the adult section, size 1. I was so gung ho to try them on that I didn't even bother to take out the iron. Anyway, lines and folds add character, giving it a more lived-in look!

And it just so happened that I was wearing my sarouel pants from Aritzia and gladiator-style sandals from Sam Edelman that day. The whole outfit reminds me of Poiret's Orientalist era.

The Wanderer's Daughter had also featured this favourite fashion at her blog, Une Envie de Sel.

Featured Mr and Mrs Smith Hotel + Giveaway + June's Winner

Congratulations to the June winner of Mr and Mrs Smith / Folie à Deux giveaway: Erica Johansson of Travel Blissful!

Today, I am featuring a hotel in the kingdom of Bhutan: Amankora from the Aman Group. The unique quality of Amankora lies in the geographical embodiment of its five lodges. According to Aman Resorts' website, "Amankora has created a series of lodges, all creatively unique and sympathetically balanced to their environment, in order to discover and comprehend the extraordinary wonders above and beneath this treasured land."

Five lodges comprise Amankora, all strategically created so that guests can engage in a circular pilgrimage around the breathtaking valleys of Central and Western Bhutan.

Each of the five lodges - Paro (main lodge), Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey, and Bumthang - offers an exceptional opportunity to stay in a boutique bolthole while exploring Bhutan's countryside. Most guests would start at either Paro, a mere 30 minutes away from the country's only airport, or Thimphu, minutes outside of Bhutan's capital. The three remaining lodges are quite a distance from the two main lodges, and thus, would require a land transfer. But all locations provide a glimpse of the spectacular setting of all five lodges amidst Himalayan mountains, valleys, and gorges.

So, leave your blackberry and laptop at home. I heard the spa and yoga areas are sublime, and so is the food (highlighting Bhutanese, Indian, Thai, and Western cuisine).



This place will guarantee bragging rights: a world-famous resort in an exotic, off-the-beaten-path destination - a truly one-of-a-kind experience!

If you would like to win a $50 US Mr and Mrs Smith gift certificate and European Coast & Country guidebook, please enter a comment on this post, telling us where you'd like to spend your Smith dollars at. Pick from any hotels here.

{all hotel images via Mr and Mrs Smith}

My Macarons: A Comparison of Three Parisian Pâtisseries

I surrender. French pastries are my weakness. And although baba au rhum, madeleine, financier, and millefeuille are favourites along with clafouti, brioche, tarte tatin, and éclair, the macaron reigns supreme in my (cook)books!

And when it comes to pâtisseries - those eponymous sweet shops where megacaloric confections are peddled - Paris is the kingdom come. No other place on earth has elevated the art and craft (and marketing) of French baking than in Paris. So, during a recent trip, I made it my mission to taste and compare macarons from different pâtisseries, lamenting the fact that I may have grown an inch or two on the waistline.

Here's the deal. Of course, Ladurée, since opening in 1862, has been a French classic. I had been wickedly gluttonous and indulged in Ladurée's 22-piece macaron gift box that cost me €45. Without regret, I tackled each of Ladurée's macarons, its outer shells touched by a light, airy crispness; the fillings, soft and gooey. These almond flour cookies have a slight bounce to the bite that perfectly sets off its heavily-scented ganache filling.

The flavours I tested: citron (cedrat), pistachio, praline, caramel with salted butter, lemon, lily of the valley, fruit rouges (red fruits), raspberry, coffee, chocolate, bergamot, blueberry, vanilla, rose petal, bitter chocolate, mango with jasmine, liquorice, and blackcurrant violet. My favourite from this collection: bergamot, pistachio and caramel with salted butter.

Lenôtre is a modern pâtisserie (established 1957) with a strong catering portfolio, serving savoury lunch viands alongside complex haute desserts. Lenôtre, the brain child of pâtissier Gaston Lenôtre who passed away earlier this year, has 35 stores in 12 countries from Japan to Kuwait to the U.S. They seem to specialize more on fancy architectural cakes; however, their chewy, vivid-hued macarons are just oozing morsels of simple goodness. The only downside is its limited variety.

The flavours I tested: chocolate, pistachio, raspberry, coffee, vanilla, and strawberry yuzu. My faves: pistachio and coffee.

The other pâtisserie that made a strong impression is Gerard Mulot. Monsieur and Madame Mulot serves savoury tarts, hearth-baked breads, and fresh-made alimentations for the neighbourhood. Many say that Monsieur Mulot's macarons are fast becoming Paris' most popular, so I had to try some for myself. I conclude that the alchemy in Gerard Mulot's kitchen produces macarons that are inventive and truly magical. Airy yet chewy shells sandwich a flawless ganache infusion that is delicately flavoured with exotic blends.

Flavours I tried: orange ginger, passionfruit basil, orange cinnamon, chocolate, pistachio, nougat, and coffee. My faves: nougat, pistachio, and passionfruit basil. Do you see a trend here? Pistachio emerges on top of my list!

The verdict? Although we found the bouquet of Ladurée's macaron fillings to be overpowering at times, the texture and quality are perfection - a testament to the maison's centuries-old macaron-making techniques. Lenôtre, on the other hand, creates classic flavours with a clean finish, albeit teetering on the boring. Meanwhile, Gerard Mulot combines passionate fusions that excite the palate, coupled with a properly chewy texture that melts in the mouth.

What's your pick?

Ladurée
16 Rue Royale, 8th arr.
Tel. 01 42 60 21 79
Metro: Concorde or Madeleine

75 Ave. des Champs-Elysées, 8th arr.
Tel. 01 40 75 08 75
Metro: George V

21 Rue Bonaparte, 6th arr.
Tel. 01 44 07 64 87
Metro: St-Germain-des-Prés

Lenôtre
10 Ave. des Champs-Elysées, 8th arr.
Tel. 01 42 65 85 10
Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

36 Ave. de la Motte Piquet, 7th arr.
Tel. 01 45 55 71 25
Metro: Ecole Militaire

and many more locations...

Gerard Mulot
76 Rue de Seine, 6th arr.
Tel. 01 43 26 85 77
Metro: Odeon or Mabillon

93 Rue de la Glacière, 13th arr.
Tel. 01 45 81 39 09
Metro: Glacière

{all images by Jennifer Laceda. Lenotre cafe by Jlastras}

A Travel Quote

Unexpected Night Cherubs at CNE Princess Gate, Toronto by Jen Laceda

Happy Canada Day, July 1st!!

National Geographic Traveler Giveaway at Folie à Deux

Hello my fellow travel lovers,

Magsdirect.com is giving away 5 annual subscriptions of National Geographic Traveler magazine. Currently, Magsdirect.com is offering National Geographic Traveler magazine for only US $14.95 / year ($1.87 per issue). Check out all their other magazine offers here. However, we're kicking it off at Folie à Deux with a FREE annual subscription of NG Traveler for 5 readers, courtesy of Magsdirect.com!

All you have to do is:

1) Sign up for Folie à Deux's updates via email by filling in the form below. Five lucky winners will be randomly picked by number generator, Random.org. Current subscribers are automatically entered in the contest.

Enter your email address:

Delivered by FeedBurner

2) The draw will be held on July 15, 2009. Winners will be contacted by the email address they provided to Folie à Deux subscription, along with an announcement at Folie à Deux blog on July 15, 2009. Winners will be asked by supplier to provide a mailing address for the subscription.

3) Contest open only to residents of the United States of America.

Good luck, kids!

Peace, Brothers

Jerusalem, Israel - Certainly, there can be no doubt that a visit to the Holy City of Jerusalem is a powerful and moving experience. If a person fails to be moved in some way by the richness of the city's history, its people and its heritage, then he must lack a soul.

Shalom. Salaam. Closer than we think. Brothers, in fact.

Featured Mr and Mrs Smith Hotel + Giveaway + Gnaoua Music Festival

Essaouira, Morocco - Since 1998, the coastal town of Essaouira has hosted the Gnaoua World Music Festival - the largest, most commercialized musical event that brings together Gnaoua musicians and fans from all over the world.

Gnaoua music is defined by Wikipedia as "a mixture of sub-Saharan African, Berber, and Arab religious songs and rhythms." It is a music that foreigners would typically associate with North Africa, most especially in Algeria and Morocco. Nowadays, Gnaoua music is a fusion of its core spiritual rhythms with jazz, blues, reggae, and even hip hop. In Morocco, traditional Gnaoua musicians tend to dress in those royal blue robes with all manners of trim. Iron castanets (called qraqabs), a three-string lute (known as hajhuj), and large drums (called tbel) are key instruments.

Old Medina walls in Essaouira by Jen Laceda

Fishermen boats in Essaouira's port by Jen Laceda

If in June 2009 you happen to be in Morocco, head over to Essaouira on the 25th - 28th (that's this week) for the Gnaoua World Music Festival. Then, do yourself a great favour by checking in to the timeless and charming Heure Bleue hotel.

Located just a few meters from the beach and a quick 10-minute jaunt to the town centre, Heure Bleue is perfectly poised in Essaouira--away from the maddening crowds of summer yet still close enough to the action.

Dressed in trendy African Chic style, Heure Bleue is oozing with zebra-skin upholstered ottomans, Colonial lounge chairs, traditional ebony masks, and brass pendant lamps amidst a central Moorish courtyard filled with fresh blooms.


It boasts the the only lift in the medina, as well as the only swimming pool inside town.

Rooms are decked in Colonial fashion, reflecting Portuguese, English, African, and Oriental influences in this little corner of Morocco.


1910 photographs of Heure Bleue when it was caïd Mbark Saïdi's palace.

{hotel images via Mr and Mrs Smith}

If you would like to win a $50 gift certificate from Mr and Mrs Smith Hotel, along with a UK & Ireland Hotel Collection book, please leave me a comment on this post and tell me which hotel in the Smith portfolio you'd love to spend your dollars at!

The Magical Carpets of Marrakech

Marrakech, Morocco - A recent trip to Marrakech had me falling head over heels in love with Moroccan rugs, particularly from the Berber tribes. Essentially, Moroccan carpets can be divided into two categories: Urban carpets and Berber rugs.

Urban carpets, mostly woven in Rabat and Salé, tend to have Anatolian or Persian influences, with a large central medallion for its motif. They typically have an overload of floral and geometric designs, with a tendency to give more weight on borders of differing widths. As they are symbols of luxury, these carpets are often found gracing the floors of wealthy homeowners.

Berber rugs, on the other hand, are knotted or woven carpets with symbolic and geometric motifs, often with unmatched patterns created on purpose. These rugs are commonly found lining the interior of kasbahs or Berber tents.

The Berbers are indigenous people of North Africa who have inhabited Morocco for over 4,000 years. They lead a nomadic or semi-nomadic life, tending sheep and goats, and harvesting their wool for use in textile. Women undertake weaving for their families, and often, the carpets showcase important thoughts and signals that are meant to communicate an individual's experience to those closest to her. What makes Berber rugs unique are the conceptual fractures--irregularities in pattern--that allow a weaver to modify the composition when new ideas meander in.

I had asked an American expat living in Marrakech, Maryam, one important question about buying rugs in Morocco. Of course, Ms. Maryam, with her exquisite taste and knowledge of many things Moroccan, responded kindly to my query. She shares with Folie à Deux readers some of her perspectives on Berber rugs.

According to Maryam of My Marrakech blog, the Souk des Tapis is a good place to start your carpet shopping in Marrakech, although the Khemmiset market near Rabat usually has excellent deals. Maryam, I also learned, loves her vintage Berber carpets (she has an online shop where she sells her finds). Her biggest tip when buying Berber carpets is to buy all wool on a wool warp (the carpet's vertical strands).

Although not a complete list by all means, here are some of the most popular Berber tribal rugs from Morocco.

From the Middle Atlas:
Beni Ouarain - a favourite among contemporary designers, the white-ground rugs from the Beni Ouarain tribe in the Middle Atlas, usually in creamy beiges, have a thick pile and a compact succession of design stripes. This is one of Maryam's favourites.

Marmoucha - another predominantly white-ground wool carpet from the northeastern part of the Middle Atlas, with a thick pile up to 4 cm high.

Zemmour - flat-woven wool rugs from the Middle Atlas that have dominant red fields, frequently embroidered with the "eye" symbol or other talismatic symbols to protect from danger.

From Haouz (between the Middle Atlas and Atlantic Ocean inhabited by Arabized Berber):
Rehamna - rugs from this area are hand knotted and are characterized by scattered native motifs with a non-traditional composition that is very much about personal expression.

Boujad - long-piled, handwoven carpets of wool from the Middle Atlas with bold abstract designs.

From the High Atlas:
Taznarght - these flat-woven wool carpets made by the Ouaouzguite tribe from the High Atlas are usually long and narrow, made from camel or goat hair, often with a well-ordered square, lozenge, or triangular motif.

Zenaga - from the warm, southwestern pre-Saharan Jebel Siroua region of the High Atlas, the carpets from here tend to have a finer structure due to their silky and lustrous wool.

Ouad Zemm - from the southern region of the High Atlas, these are flatweaves in solid-coloured backdrop with plant, animal, and talismatic motif, which are made of wool warp and designed with either wool or silk.

For whichever rug you decide to bring home, let it be known that each one had been woven according to family traditions handed from generation to generation. It is not just a static, utilitarian rug, but one that spins a dynamic tale of the joys and struggles of the weaver, and a way for the foreigner to connect with the Amazigh (meaning "free people").

While Maryam may be busy working away on her design book for Artisan, you can still find her blogging here. She also sells the most beautiful vintage Moroccan rugs.

"Shopping Marrakech" by Susan Simon and Nally Bellati (photographer) is a lovely little guide that's worth checking out.

Suggested Reading: Moroccan Carpets by Brooke Pickering, W. Russell Pickering, and Ralph S. Yohe

Mr. Raindrop Has Stories To Tell

I received an email from The City Sage announcing that I had won a Jaya Loves Tekeko organic pillow. A few days later, Fed Ex was knocking on my door to deliver Mr. Raindrop. Oh, the smile on my little one's face was priceless.

She and Mr. Raindrop had become very good friends. Good or bad and funny or sad, they would tell each other stories. They even fall asleep together.

Meanwhile, Mommy was busy writing and guest posting at these lovely blogs!
I reminisced about love in Manhattan at Velvet Escape's blog...
And I became an itinerant Torontonian in my own city at Ever the Nomad.

Happy Weekend!

Stay tuned for upcoming posts: Where to buy carpets in Marrakech.

Two Cities In One: Tel Aviv Via Manhattan

Sunrise in Miami Beach? Venice Beach? Sagg Beach? I'm afraid you're mistaken.

This is sunrise at the fabulous Tel Aviv beach in Israel--consistently voted as one of the world's "hottest" beaches.

And guess what?

Tel Aviv Beach and Skyline

The Tel Aviv Beach comes to Central Park in New York City this Sunday, June 21!

TEL AVIV BEACH PARTY TAKES MANHATTAN
We're bringing the fun and sun of the Mediterranean to Central Park, this Sunday, June 21, from 11:00 AM to 6:00 PM, for an all-day beach party extravaganza. And...it's free!

The Tel Aviv Beach Party at the Naumburg Bandshell in Central Park will feature:

-Tons and tons of sparkling white sand, replicating the Tel Aviv beachfront complete with lifeguard stands, umbrellas and beach chairs

-Traditional Israeli beach games including backgammon and matkot (Israeli beach paddle ball)

-An appearance by former Miss Israel, Sivan Klein, and Israeli supermodel, Esti Ginzburg

-Performances by Hatikva 6, Israel's most famous reggae band; FLOW, a multi-lingual Israeli rock n' roll band; and DJ Hadar Marks

Listen to the reggae beats of Hatikva 6...

-A raffle to win a free Tel Aviv beach vacation at the Prima Hotel Tel Aviv. (Oh, it just keeps getting better!)

-All day ice-pops giveaway, free sunscreen, and more...

Is it a wonder, then, that Tel Aviv is dubbed "the city that never stops", while New York is "the city that never sleeps" --Coincidence?

For more information, visit http://www.tlv100.co.il/.
Visit us on facebook at Tel Aviv Beach Party in Central Park.
For more information on travel to Israel, visit http://www.goisrael.com/.

20-Hour Toronto

Toronto, Canada - As soon as the icy snow thaws and the Arctic winds skedaddle out of the city, Toronto summons up the inertia to celebrate any occasion. The impetus: warm weather. The angle: diversity. The result: a city alive. Is it no wonder, then, that Toronto was ranked by the Economist Intelliegence Unit as #4 most liveable city in the world?

This past Saturday was a typical, beautiful spring day in Toronto. And like a well-oiled machine, the city was already churning out events simultaneously in several districts.

First, the St Lawrence Market Neighbourhood held Woofstock, which is dubbed "the largest dog festival in North America." Over 100,000 dog owners and their canines showed up for the event.




Lunch was at the St. Lawrence Market where we had a plate of fish and chips and fried calamari at Buster's Sea Cove stall.



Later on, we cooled down with ice cream cones. Looks like somebody was enjoying her watermelon sorbet...

After a few hours of petting cute canines, we hopped on the streetcar to the Harbourfront on Queen's Quay. This lakeside neighbourhood is a perennial summer favourite, and thus, one of the chosen venues for Luminato, a Toronto festival of arts and creativity, with mostly free events dispersed throughout the city. While the Yonge-Dundas Square got most of the Luminato concerts and dance parties, the boardwalk at the Harbourfrount played host to a free (gasp!) Cirque du Soleil performance as well as President's Choice 1000 Taste of Toronto.


While the Cirque du Soleil needs no introduction, the 1000 Taste of Toronto does. It is a food event two years running, where Toronto chefs cook up a storm to serve signature dishes for $5 a pop! Here's a peek at some of the delicious goodies on site:

Mis Amigos Restaurant cranked out Ecuadorean Grilled Chicken on their fiery pit.


While Loïc Gourmet presented a Chilled Cucumber Honeydew Soup with Yoghurt and a variety of canapés--Roasted Tomato & Goat Cheese, Chicken Supreme Salad, and a No-Tuna Salad (made with Perch, Pickerel, Trout).


Fritto Misto - Tempura-battered Green Beans, Zucchini, and Squash Blossoms with Garlic Aioli - from Trattoria Nervosa was my big favourite of the day.


Deep Fried Mozzarella with Red and Yellow Pepper Salsa, also from Trattoria Nervosa, was a hit with the kids.


Roast Beef from Mariposa Cruises surprisingly garnered plenty of fans.


Susur Lee's Madeline's and Lee restaurants created a ton of excitement over a salad--a 19-ingredient Singapore Slaw.


An adult version of Ham and Cheese with a Soy Shrimp Lettuce Wrap from Hemisphere Restaurant got mixed reviews.


Pulled Pork from Vesta Lunch always makes an appearance at local festivals.


Other foods that made waves: Lamb Spiedini


Tandoori Chicken with Basmati Rice, Chickpeas, and Mini-Samosa


Lamb Chop with Couscous


Senses Restaurant and Bakery spawned epic line-ups that spilled well beyond the fences.


The Senses dessert line-up? Wild Ginger and Lemongrass Crème Brulee, Chinese Sweet Wine Poached Pear with Star Anise, Mini Caramelized Banana Cream Pie in Phyllo Cup, Mini Raspberry and Chocolate Tart.


Meanwhile, that was not the end of it. We had made plans 'round midnight to meet up with friends for drinks and dance at The Drake Hotel on the hip West Queen West district. So, we ditched our child alone at home (just kidding!!) and we hauled ourselves to the Underground Club at the Drake, where some handlebar-mustached DJ and his sidekick were spinning 80's house music!




We went home at the god-forbidden 0300 hours (hey, we're responsible parents now!). Altogether, my hubby and I were out and about in Toronto for a grand total of 20 hours!!

Disclaimer: While I am an ex-smoker, I think this is a nasty habit and I wouldn't recommend anyone to start. Also, that's not my husband hugging me, but a very good friend, Mauriece.

Ker & Downey's Luxury Shamwari Experience

Anyone who has seen the movie "Out of Africa" will certainly recognize the name Ker & Downey. After all, they were credited as the movie's safari organizers. So, it is with great pleasure that I present to Folie à Deux readers, a selection of Ker & Downey trips that live by the company's "Journeys of Distinction" byline. Please enjoy! The next Ker & Downey guest post will be in July.
-Jen Laceda

Located near Port Elizabeth in South Africa lies the world’s leading game reserve, Shamwari. Encompassing almost 50,000 acres and completely malaria free, the Shamwari Private Game Reserve is home to “Africa’s Big Five”: elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion, and leopard. The reserve prides itself on conservation of the land and the wildlife that inhabits it, winning World’s Leading Conservation Company and Game Reserve many years running. It is of the utmost importance of those who run the reserve to ensure that the area retains its natural habitat for the five different eco-systems that lay within its boundaries.

Not only does the reserve offer a once in a lifetime experience of an African Safari, but it also boasts seven luxury lodges for you to choose from to ensure that your visit to Shamwari is a unique travel experience not quickly forgotten. You’ll have a choice of the following:

Long Lee Manor - Located in an Edwardian Manor House built in 1910, Long Lee Manor can host up to 38 people in five star luxury. Also included on the property are two swimming pools, a spa, and a fantastic outdoor dining area.

Bushmans River Lodge - A restored Victorian homestead only has four rooms if you are looking for the ultimate in privacy. There are multiple dining options for you to choose from, great wine selection, even a humidor full of Cuban cigars.

Eagles Crag Lodge - Nine suites are individually separated in the bush to provide you with the utmost privacy. With two of the walls made completely of glass, you’ll have amazing views of the valley surrounding you. There is an onsite spa, library, as well as a lounge and cocktail bar.

Bayethe Tented Lodge - If you like a little more “rustic” with your “luxury”, you may enjoy staying at Bayethe. Each tent lies underneath a patch of trees to make you feel like you are the only people on the property. To ensure that you are as comfortable as possible, each tent is air-conditioned and heated, and also provides you with a private plunge pool. Three of the tents even provide satellite tv and a fireplace.

Sarili Lodge - If you will be traveling to Shamwari with your family, the soon to open Sarili Lodge will offer you a luxurious family friendly experience you won’t soon forget. Your children can learn all about the wildlife on the reserve with special programs set up by the lodge staff.

Lobengula Lodge - If you like an equisite dining experience, Lobengula is perfect for you. Five individual suites are tucked away in a valley, two of which have their own private plunge pools.

Riverdene - A colonial lodge, Riverdene has nine rooms and is very family friendly, jungle gym included! All of the rooms include television, private balconies, and are air conditioned.

Wherever you decide to stay, there are plenty of amazing things to participate in on the game reserve. Two sanctuaries at Shamwari are funded by the Born Free Foundation, a UK based organization that “undertakes animal welfare, conservation and public awareness campaigns to prevent animal abuse and to keep wildlife in its natural habitat.” The sanctuaries house lions and leopards recovered from zoos, circuses, and any other facility that houses captive animals. If your children travel with you to Shamwari, the sanctuaries offer amazing educational services for kids.


If it has always been your dream to take a luxury safari in the heart of Africa, consider traveling to the Shamwari Private Game Reserve. It could prove to be a once in a lifetime experience for you and your family!

Ker Downey is a luxury travel company servicing not only Africa, but other exotic locations around the world. For more information visit http://kerdowney.com/

Comment about Shamwari from a trusted traveller:
As you know, part of our honeymoon included a 3-night stay at the Bayethe Lodge at Shamwari. This particular lodge is not for those who dislike critters! Our first night, I vowed to move out of the tented lodge but I think the bugs heard me as I couldn't really spot them after the first night. Staying at a game reserve - even a luxury 5 star one like Shamwari - is not a relaxing experience but it is one that you will not forget. You are awakened very early for your morning game drive but you don't care because of the adrenaline pumping inside you over the excitement of what might be seen that day. After your 3 to 4 hour drive, you return to the lodge for breakfast after which time you can nap, take a dip in the plunge pool or get a massage at the spa. Your day is also filled with an afternoon game drive - so there is a good chance that you will see the big 5 during one of your trips out to the reserve. We saw the ever elusive leopard as well as the other big 5 animals and we felt incredibly lucky. Other memorable moments on our drives included a herd of elephants surrounding our jeep, a mother cheetah with her cubs feasting on a meal (Kudo) and seeing a lion and her cubs just before dusk on our way back into camp. Bayethe's 3 course-meals are top notch too. Hey, if its good enough for Princess Diana, Brad Pitt and John Travolta, it's good enough for the person passionate about travel to Africa and authentic animal encounters!
-Melissa Lindo, Toronto, Canada

Marrakech Through My Daughter's Eyes + Blog Love Awards Night

Marrakech, Morocco - While we were wanderers in Marrakech, our 2-year-old daughter decided to pick up a new toy--my Canon Elph point-and-shoot camera. She, of the curious nature, found Marrakech's twisting alleys riveting. Naturally, we gave her creative licence to express herself. And this is what happened...

She found Daddy's shoes thoroughly entertaining...

And locals in their djellabas intrigued her...

There were two boys kicking a ball around, and she wanted to join the fun. But when she approached with the camera, they simply ran away from her, giggling.

"What colour are the houses?" I asked her.

"Mommy, Owange and Pink!"

I would have preferred Tangerine and Pomegranate, but whatever, we'll just have to work on that one!

At the end of the day, we sat on the terrasse of a popular Moroccan restaurant and wrote on a piece of paper what we wanted to eat. The meal was good.

The End. {all photos taken by a 2-year-old girl}

P.S.
I received this award from Liz of Travelogged and Sasha of Everything Fabulous. Thanks for your generosity!
How to pay it forward if you have received one:
1) Accept the award, post it on your blog, together with the name of the person who has granted the award and link back.
2) Then pass the award to 15 other blogs that you enjoy.
3) Remember to contact the blogger to let them know about the award.
Here are my 15 blog loves:
l'antipodeuse
Jollygoo
Une Envie de Sel
The Beauty File
The Q Family Adventures
Velvet Escape
La Lune Dans Le Ciel
Our Phenomenal Life
My Mom Friday
IngleTalk
L'inventaire de l'esthetique
Otis & Frank
416 Cycle Style
Camels and Chocolates
Nerd Boyfriend

Of Ham and Cheese and Giving Thanks

Oh, how I missed you so.

I have been away for two years. But now, we meet again. My beloved books.

I know this living arrangement is only transitory, until we have to move again in a few months. But I promise that, next time, we we will stay longer. You see, we have been building a home for our family.


Regardless, let us celebrate. That we have a roof over our heads and clothes on our backs and books to read and places to go. That we are a family and we share this life.

And what have we learned thus far? That simple pleasures can keep us going. Like hearing a song that moves us and admiring a beautiful piece of art. Like understanding the misunderstood, and forgiving the unforgiven. Like knowing that we are but specks of dust in this universe and we're just passing through.

And so, we turned to our plates and give thanks, for we have not gone hungry.

A cave-aged Gruyere cheese to start with, lovingly cured for a year to give that full-bodied flavour and sharpness. And very much like life, it gets better with age.

There was a package of Emmenthal cheese from Switzerland and another of Manchego from Spain.

The slices of Speck from Italy were mildly peppery...

While the Serrano ham shavings from Spain were fiercely robust.

We had a picnic in our tiny living room floor today, with boxes strewn around us as we slowly settle in. And even though, oh, I am so painfully wishing to see our new home soon, I count the many blessings we have in life right now. Our family, our friends, our community (Toronto and around the world), our supporters, our earth. Thank you for taking care of us. We hope we're not too much trouble.

Love the Louvre: A VERY Short Tour

Boasting a collection superbly vast (or vastly superb), the Louvre Museum often overshadows its own history. Before it became one of the world's greatest museums, the Louvre was originally a fortress (Louvre is from the Saxon word lowar, which means fortified castle).

In 1190, King Philippe Auguste built a fortress on this very site to protect Paris from Viking raids. For two centuries, it served as a high-profile prison and arsenal. During the reign of King Charles V in the 14th century, ostentatious rebuilding had turned the fortress into a royal residence. Meanwhile, the 16th century King Francois I, commissioned what was left of this Medieval fortification to be razed in lieu of his Renaissance-style palace (a 1983 excavation had revealed the well-preserved foundation of Philippe Auguste's fortress, which can now be seen in the Cour Carrée crypt). It was King Francois I who acquired a number of pivotal Italian treasures, including the Mona Lisa, to jump start a collection. By Louis XIV's reign a hundred years later, the French monarchy was amassing a wealth of artwork as payment from its debtors. The subsequent kings, including Napoleon Bonaparte, would continue to grow their coffers, as well as expand the royal apartments at the Louvre, each leaving their own imprint. However, it wasn't until the end of the Revolution in 1793, when the monarchs were ousted, that it opened as a public museum.

There are two ways of attacking the Louvre. The unflagging fanatic can plan their route and slowly progress through each wing or collection with nothing but the utmost patience. But of course, this strategy might require days, weeks, or even months of visitations. In the meantime, for today's time-sensitive, attention-deficit visitor, it is possible to see the "all-stars" in one day or two. Here is a bantam sampling from the Louvre's sterling collection. I must emphasize that this is but a small representative!

Battling Warrior known as the "Borghese Gladiator"

Standing Woman known as the "Venus de Milo"

Plaque from the Parthenon Frieze

"Winged Victory of Samothrace"

"The Coronation of the Virgin" by Guido del Pietro, also known as Fra Angelico

"The Oath of the Horatii" by Jacques-Louis David

"The Consecration of the Emperor Napoleon and the Coronation of Empress Josephine" by Jacques-Louis David

"Leonidas and Thermopylae" by Jacques-Louis David

"Grande Odalisque" by Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres

"Napoleon Bonaparte Visiting the Plague Stricken at Jaffa" by Antoine-Jean Gros

"Liberty Leading the People" by Eugene Delacroix

"The Women of Algiers" by Eugene Delacroix

"Death of Sardanapalus" by Eugene Delacroix

"The Wedding Feast at Cana" by Paolo Caliari, also known as Veronese

And of course, "La Giaconda" also known as "The Mona Lisa" by Leonardo Da Vinci

The museum's collection is housed beneath ornate ceilings with splendid frescoed vaulting and sumptuous gilt stucco like these. In what better way can a country showcase their national treasure than in a national monument?

So, what do you love about the Louvre?



Musée du Louvre
Rue de Rivoli, 1st eme, Paris
Tel. 01 40 20 50 50
Metro: Palais Royal

Open
Mon, Thu, Sat, Sun from 9am to 6pm
Wed, Fri from 9am to 10 pm
Closed Tue

Admission
€9
€6 on Wed & Fri 6:00pm-9:45pm
Free for under-18s at all times
Free every first Sunday of the month

Les Chaises Parisiennes

Paris, France

There's something about empty chairs in Paris. I like sitting on a café, just wasting my time as the world goes by.

My companion? Loneliness.

Recommended Reading: Remembrance of Things Paris edited by Ruth Reichl

Hats and Sarouels

My current fashion obsession? Sarouel pants and Panama hats. Hat by Goorin Brothers.

Hats and pants definitely spotted all over Paris, Barcelona, and Marrakech!

Who wants to win a Goorin Brothers hat? Leave a comment on this post!!!

Featured Smith Hotel + Giveaway + May Winner

The winner of the Folie à Deux and Mr and Mrs Smith giveaway for May is: Sasha of Everything Fabulous! You have won a Mr and Mrs Smith European Cities hotel guidebook + $50 US Smith certificate! Please send me an email at fashion_jen@hotmail.com to claim your prize!

Featured Hotel: Fazenda São Francisco in Brazil

Perched on the expansive Corumbau shores, on a stretch of white sand in Brazil's Southern Bahia, is a beach lair known as Fazenda São Francisco. Here in sexy Brazil, you'll be quickly knocking C's off your to-do list: Caipirinha, Capoeira, and cool Corumbau seas!

While the Atlantic's waters might not be as crystalline as the Pacific's or Indian's, it is as inviting as a sexy Brazilian's embrace on a sultry day!

What better way to escape the heat than to slip into the cool, saltwater pool or breezy, terracotta bungalows of Fazenda São Francisco?


The rooms are contemporary, neutral-toned private chambers, each with a luxurious, open-air, I-may-not-want-to-leave-this-place kind of bath.


After a hard day's work biking, snorkelling, boating, jungle trekking, and swimming, you may opt to dine al fresco on wicker sofas, wooden tables and canvas chairs. As you sip your caipirinha, the most terrible thing you'd have to do is watch the bougainvilleas and frangipanes sway with the breeze and the palm trees whisper sweet nothings to the wind.

Oh yeah, and children are welcome. Free for under 3's.

{all images via Mr and Mrs Smith}

How to join the giveaway:
Would you like to win a Mr and Mrs Smith $50 US certificate and a UK & Ireland Hotel Guide this June (draw date: June 30, 2009)? Leave a comment on this post as well as future posts entitled "Featured Smith Hotel + Giveaway" and tell me about your dream Mr and Mrs Smith hotel, and you will automatically be included in the draw!

Again, congratulations to Sasha of Everything Fabulous for winning May's prize package!

Israel's 10 Greatest Hits

I'm taking a short break from writing about Paris, Barcelona and Marrakech to post some of my favourite moments on a recent Israel trip.

1. Crusader Akko
The rumour is that the descendants of Zebulum's tribe (1 of the 12 Tribes of Israel) settled here in Akko. But that's not the only thing that fuels interest in this harbour town on Israel's Western Galilee coast. Akko was once a Crusader city where the so-called defenders of Christianity pillaged, raped, and murdered Jews and Arabs to feed their egotistical needs. Traces of Christianity (thankfully?) are now scarce in this once-prosperous trading post, which is today dominated by the Al-Jazzar Mosque.
2. Herod's Caesarea
Today, Caesarea is a fashionable beach hideaway with a relatively "new town" feel. But what most people will learn about this seaside enclave is that it was once Herod's pet project. The great Jewish king (ok, the Jewish part is debatable) built a grand Roman port town in this section of the Mediterranean coast, complete with public office buildings, baths, temples, theatres, and a mini Circus Maximus. More on Caesarea in future posts.

3. Druze Hospitality in Peki'in
Peki'in is a sleepy mountain village in the Upper Galilee, far from the tourist route and without any outstanding landmark to speak of. When a village is known to be the (2nd century) hideout of Rabbi Simon Bar Yochai of the Bar Kochba rebellion against the Romans, you know this place is remote (but not in a Survivor kind of way). And here, inside a Druze's private home, I had the best meal of my entire stay in Israel. More on this in future posts as well!

4. The Dead Sea
We all know this is the earth's lowest point at 400 meters (1300 feet) below sea level. And oh, the paradox of it all! The Dead Sea is known for the healing power of its super salty water and minerals, and is characterized by its atmosphere's high oxygen content and low UVB. So, in the tradition of pilgimages to Israel, a different kind has developed in the Dead Sea--the health pilgrimage.

5. Masada
Mass suicide, throwing children off the cliffs, Herodian palaces, Roman sieges, exiles and hideaways--all the elements of a military drama can be ticked off at Masada, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the middle of nowhere. Well, ok, nowhere = Judean desert. It's desolate, it's impressive, it's dramatic, and it should be on everyone's must-see list!

6. Ein Gedi
Ein Gedi is thought to be the place where King David hid from the wrath of Saul. During Saul's search (soul search?) for David, he and his foot soldiers had a camping trip at Ein Gedi (wow, it must've been beautiful here at night). But sneaky smart King David managed to find the camp (dude, that was easy) and instead of off-ing Saul, he spared the life of the one who wanted to kill him. What a prince charming David was. And this was where it all happened!

7. Jerusalem
Jerusalem deserves more than one photo, no? The whole city is an absolute must for any visitor to Israel. If you didn't visit Jerusalem, it would be like going to Italy and not eating pasta. Or to Tokyo and not think of holding up your fingers to make a peace sign. You get the point. The Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock, and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher are top holy sites to visit.



8. Jaffa
This is thought to be the port where Jonah set sail and was subsequently swallowed by a big fish. This is also where the disciple Simon Peter--later known as St. Peter--came to heal the seamstress Tabitha and was shown a vision by God that it was ok to eat unclean foods like shrimp, shellfish, and pigs.

9. Tel Aviv Shopping, Nightlife, and Bauhaus Architecture
Oh, Tel Aviv, the city that doesn't sleep! This is modern Israel! The kids are cool and the world is their oyster (oops, not kosher)! It is a little known fact that Tel Aviv is actually a UNESCO World Heritage city because of its collection of Bauhaus buildings like the one that houses a Diesel store below.


10. Flying El Al
Hands down, the safest airline in the world. I will fly El Al any time. I love the way they investigate each passenger, to the point that their security team had read my blog (yes, THIS blog!) even before I stepped into the airport. I believe their security protocols are hardest to breach nor can it be easily penetrated, not even by snakes on the plane.